Originally Posted by loot
which worms will it take care of? I'm asking because it will not open for me on TSC web page thanks
i did some research an got the info. I think I'll give it a try.
which worms will it take care of? I'm asking because it will not open for me on TSC web page thanks
i did some research an got the info. I think I'll give it a try.
I went to TS and bought 40lbs, this stuff works from what I can tell. My dogs have a new attitude on life. When I have some time to write I'll tell you how I've found is the easiest way to administer. Either way, I think it would be imposable to OD a dog on this stuff.
I say screw conventional wormers and poisoning my dogs to kill worms… this is the stuff here. Been talking to chicken, rabbit, dog and cowmen and they are all swearing by this stuff, it also works in the vegetable garden as well!
which worms will it take care of? I'm asking because it will not open for me on TSC web page thanks
i did some research an got the info. I think I'll give it a try.
Brother, I read my Bible and your script is complicated at best, even for an educated man such as myself, LOL. This stuff seems to be fool proof. From what my friend told me who gardens, it acts like glass shards, slicing up slugs, snails and in the case of dogs, worms that it comes in contact with. There is no resistance that can be built up as compared with conventional poisons.
If I have some time I’m gonna drink a weeks worth myself and report back. I have tasted it and it tastes like… dirt. I've been eating dirt for the past 40 years... I don't see where a little DE will hurt anything.
Yes I do ... and when all else fails, a person can always refer to their book (or buy it)
That said, I am working on an even more complete piece on the matter, and sorry it isn't ready yet, but I've been real busy of late!
I am not too sure what you found "complicated" about rotating one wormer one month, and another wormer another month, but to each his own. If my understanding of diatomaceous earth use is correct, you have to give it every day, right? Well, to me, it is a lot less complicated to give my medicine once a month, as opposed to giving your preference every day, but that's just me.
Regarding the issue of "chemicals," the reality is there is a HUGE safety margin with both pyrantel, as well as fenbendazole, it is only the ivermectin that is the most toxic of the drugs I recommend ... and the simple fact is even you users of diatomaceous earth still have to give ivermectin (or its equivalent), because DE does nothing for heartworm.
Thus, to my way of looking at things, you give yourself 29 days more work using DE, and yet you still have to give the most toxic wormer of all to your dogs in the form of ivermectin, so I am not really sure what is being accomplished
But, as with everything, to each his own.
Jack
How often must you give this?
I'M GIVING IT EVERY DAY FOR A MONTH THEN ONE WEEK IN THE MONTHHow often must you give this?
we use ivomec,strongi-t,and panacure
week one hlaf cc per 50 lbs(ivomec)
week 2 1 cc per 10 lbs od stronigit
and week 3 1 cc per 10 lbs panacure
week 4 nothing this is every month
not sayin its the best or maybe a better way to do it but im on 10 yrs strong and none have had worms at any vet visit we go to.
To me, work equates to dealing with a messy paste coming out of a tube that is clearly segmented into doses for equine as opposed to canine. Trying to get it stuff in their mouths, the warmer it gets the messier it is. Residual being left on my finger, having to wipe it on my pants and move on to the next dog and repeat over 20 times for 3 days then having to mark a date to do it all over again in 30 days. Not to mention having to procure about 2 to 3 tubes of each every month and going to the feed store on the weekend only to find they don’t have enough in stock, then having to go into town and try to find the wormer, wasting my time which to me is about $100 per hour during the week and $150 per hour on the weekend. ARRG!
Where as with the DE, measure their feed as I would do everyday anyways in a 4 cup measuring cup, sprinkling about a tablespoon on top out of a spray paint can top (Again the stuff is dirt so I don’t see how an OD can occur), shaking the feed around in the cup so it will cling, and feed it to the dogs as usual. It adds about 10 sec to each dog and if I happen to miss a day, big deal because I do it every day and if it does as it should, it would be impossible for any worm to build up in the dog as with a conventional wormer.
And if BIGFL is right, after the 1st month you can ease up on the dosing. Myself, I hunt every week, in the woods on feral hogs which carry more disease then any creature next to the armadillo, not to mention all the fleas and ticks we encounter on the animals we catch, so I will continue with daily dosing.
To each his own does in fact sum it up.
I am not too sure what you found "complicated" about rotating one wormer one month, and another wormer another month, but to each his own. If my understanding of diatomaceous earth use is correct, you have to give it every day, right? Well, to me, it is a lot less complicated to give my medicine once a month, as opposed to giving your preference every day, but that's just me.
Regarding the issue of "chemicals," the reality is there is a HUGE safety margin with both pyrantel, as well as fenbendazole, it is only the ivermectin that is the most toxic of the drugs I recommend ... and the simple fact is even you users of diatomaceous earth still have to give ivermectin (or its equivalent), because DE does nothing for heartworm.
Thus, to my way of looking at things, you give yourself 29 days more work using DE, and yet you still have to give the most toxic wormer of all to your dogs in the form of ivermectin, so I am not really sure what is being accomplished :?
But, as with everything, to each his own.
Jack
Well, then in point of fact, you're not following my book at all, you're following the bozos on PedsOnline who use Zimectrin Paste, etc., which "catch-all wormers" contain combinations of ingredients that are NOT properly-dosed for a dog, I agree. Which is why I do not use these products at all and have never recommended that anyone else do either.
Well, here again, you are likewise not following my book at all ... since I recommend not going to a feed store for your products ... but instead I recommend ordering better, cheaper, specific products from vet catalogues directly ... who send these products to your door ... thereby saving yourself the time and expense, not to mention enabling you to control the dosages better.
Furthermore, if your time is so valuable, I don't see how you're "saving" any time by going to a feed store (ignoring my book) ... and then giving DE every single day for a month (which takes still more time) ... whereas doing it my way you only have to dose ONCE a month. So, really, you're not making any sense here at all. You're just falsely-claiming you followed my book (when you clearly did not), and you're falsely-claiming to save time (when clearly you are not) ... all so that you can 'avoid' giving your dogs dog a chemical ... which, here again, you are NOT.
Because this brings us to my other point (that you failed to address at all), namely that the ivermectin is THE harshest chemical of all ... and you still have to give that to your dogs, regardless. So I am not sure how are saving anything at all here ... neither time, nor effort, nor expense, nor avoiding the use of chemical wormers.
What you're doing is fooling yourself, nothing more.
Jack
Page 160 to 165, read it and calling to order things between the over 100 calls I get a day with people offering me work just doesn't happen. Then there is baseball practice, basketball practice birthday parties, and a host of other things in life you do not have to deal with as a single man who has no children Jack. And 5 pages to tell someone how to worm a dog is ridiculous. My opinion.
I could care less about “Saving Money” which is the main jest of your not going to the feed store, I make plenty of it, it is my Time that is valuable to me, and splashing a little dirt on the food I’m going to give my dogs every day that I can pick up from the same place I but my feed from makes the most sense to my brain Jack, maybe not yours because we’re all different.
No need to try to cut me down because I don’t follow your book verbatim, at least you got my money, isn’t that the whole reason, at least main reason, you created the book, to sell it?
Again and as with everything, to each his own, no hard feelings, no need for red ink because I’m going to do things the way I’ve always done them, MY WAY. I never claimed to have “Followed” your book, I just bought it and read it, as most who have it have done.
Cheers!
David B.
Well, then in point of fact, you're not following my book at all, you're following the bozos on PedsOnline who use Zimectrin Paste, etc., which "catch-all wormers" contain combinations of ingredients that are NOT properly-dosed for a dog, I agree. Which is why I do not use these products at all and have never recommended that anyone else do either.
Well, here again, you are likewise not following my book at all ... since I recommend not going to a feed store for your products ... but instead I recommend ordering better, cheaper, specific products from vet catalogues directly ... who send these products to your door ... thereby saving yourself the time and expense, not to mention enabling you to control the dosages better.
Furthermore, if your time is so valuable, I don't see how you're "saving" any time by going to a feed store (ignoring my book) ... and then giving DE every single day for a month (which takes still more time) ... whereas doing it my way you only have to dose ONCE a month. So, really, you're not making any sense here at all. You're just falsely-claiming you followed my book (when you clearly did not), and you're falsely-claiming to save time (when clearly you are not) ... all so that you can 'avoid' giving your dogs dog a chemical ... which, here again, you are NOT.
Because this brings us to my other point (that you failed to address at all), namely that the ivermectin is THE harshest chemical of all ... and you still have to give that to your dogs, regardless. So I am not sure how are saving anything at all here ... neither time, nor effort, nor expense, nor avoiding the use of chemical wormers.
What you're doing is fooling yourself, nothing more.
Jack
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