{{{{{PUP WONT EAT HIS FOOD.}}}}}???????

My Little pup that i just got a week back had got worms so i have been treating him with wormaway 7 .
Lately he has been having loose stools, and rarely eating his own food. ( I SAY EATING HIS OWN FOOD because he tries to eat out of the other dogs bowl besides his own.) He has been currently on puppy chow and i move them up at 7 months to either diamond or blue buffalo.

In his urine i have been seeing white liitle spots in his poop and worms. I have been treating him for about 3-4 days now and he has not put on any weight, because he wont eat his food often so i just keep it out for him to eat it on his own time, but when he eats it he eats a very small portion and goes about his buisness, roaming around.

:?: :?: :?: :?: I DONT KNOW WHAT WRONG WITH THE PUP :?: :?: :?:

1. Puppy Chow is garbage food; shame on you for feeding it;

2. I don't know what Wormaway 7 is, so I can't tell you anything about it unless you post the active ingredient and how much per-mil it is dosed;

3. What is wrong with the pup is he is not being fed good food and his heavily-parasitized on top of this.

4. I also don't know if the wormer you're giving is toxic to pups, nor being given at the right dose, because you didn't provide me with any real information on dosage or mg/ml of the drug you have.

5. Many pups try to eat out of "the other pup's" dish, that is normal.

Jack

havent heard of a pup not eating his raw food tho

just saying ;)

id give the dog a good general cure, ask your vet about ut

btw, leaving the bowl never helps. offer it for 5 minutes then take it away untill his next feeding moment.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by R2L

havent heard of a pup not eating his raw food tho
just saying ;)
id give the dog a good general cure, ask your vet about ut
btw, leaving the bowl never helps. offer it for 5 minutes then take it away untill his next feeding moment.

---

??? Never heard of a "general cure" ... a general cure for what?

Jack

Here is the wormer i gave him, link

http://dailymed.nlm.nih.gov/dailymed/dr ... m?id=18882

This morning he seemed fine, i let him out to empty and his poop was back to normal and hard. He also has been eating all of his food, so i guess it did work, just a matter of putting more weight on him

Okay, that drug is a mixture of pyrantel and praziquantel. I am not sure why they put a tapewormer in there as a regular wormer, but I personally worm with specific wormers (meaning single-ingredient wormers, so I can control everything, rather than catch-all wormers that may not be dosed right). For example, a 10 lb pup should get 50mg of pyrantel, and 34 mg of praziquantel, but in that "catch-all" wormer, you're only giving 30 mg of pyrantel, and 30 mg of praziquantel. So you're underdosting a tad with the prazi an quite a bit with the pyrantel.

So if you're asking "me" what I would do (like you did in the PM), I would re-wire everything you're doing from the ground up. I wouldn't be feeding a garbage feed like Puppy Chow, and I wouldn't be using a "catch-all" wormer. I would have the specific wormers pyrantel, fenbendazole, and praziquantel kept separate, so I could use each one with precision, or not use one if (as is usually the case with praziquantel) it was not required.

Other than that, I would consider the possibility of coccidia also, and consider the use of Albon as per my blog article, if he exhibited the symptoms.

Good luck,

Jack

.

1. The reason i used a wormer for more that just one specific type of worms is because i was not sure of what type of worms did he have. Such as , tapeworms, roundworms,hook worms,ect.

2. Yes, i have pups on chow and yes you might think it is garbage, but i really have not seen no dramatic disadvantage in my dogs while on puppy chow as when i move them to diamond.

3. A friend of mine said that mayday was being fed puppy chow as an adult, and we all know how he turned out, i am not saying this is true or not, neither this is why my pups are on puppy chow, just what i heard.

4. I was thinking about just switching all of my dogs to ORIJEN and keeping them on that. I seen you had a post talking about sportmix or something, would you consider that to be a feed than puppy chow

@ Jack, meant a cure which gets most worms and guardia as well. I see nothing wrong with that, might as well put them on some boiled rice and chicken for a day or two when they're having loose stool or diarea.


@ Ying Yang, Iv been feeding orijen for a year or so but changed back to raw. To much protein for maintenance which also give them softer stool then normal, plus they shit 3 times as much then on raw, plus they drank water excessively

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by YigYang

1. The reason i used a wormer for more that just one specific type of worms is because i was not sure of what type of worms did he have. Such as , tapeworms, roundworms,hook worms,ect.

---

The wormer you're using does nothing for hookworm, unless double-dosed and given for 3 consecutive days---which would thereby give 3x as much tapeworm medicine as required. This is why I don't like "bundling" wormers together. Using the protocol I suggested allows for you to give the proper amount for each problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by YigYang

2. Yes, i have pups on chow and yes you might think it is garbage, but i really have not seen no dramatic disadvantage in my dogs while on puppy chow as when i move them to diamond.

---

Diamond is garbage too. Have you ever actually read the ingredients? The whole principle behind "kibbling" at all is wrong; it devalues all the food items by default by the very nature of the "kibbling" process.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by YigYang

3. A friend of mine said that mayday was being fed puppy chow as an adult, and we all know how he turned out, i am not saying this is true or not, neither this is why my pups are on puppy chow, just what i heard.

---

Mayday's genetics to be a great dog, and what he may or may not have been fed, are two different things.

Since you seem to be immune to learning (or even wanting to learn) new and better ways, I am left curious as to why you keep PMing me for "help" all the time, if all you're going to do is adamantly keep doing the same ignorant things you're doing and reject the advice I give you ... and "Yeah but" everything I say. What is the sense of asking for an opinion, if all you're going to do is confuse issues and refuse to accept the very opinion you're asking for?

If you actually do your own research, and if you actually take the time to study drugs, their currently-accepted dosages, and if you actually read-up on the subject of nutrition, you will realize that everything I am saying is true. However, if you want to repeat something "your friend told you," who has zero actual knowledge, and as if what he said has anything to do with what I am saying, then I can't see any point in responding to your requests for help. Go with what your friend told you then, which will save me the wasted time of offering good advice that won't be heeded :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by YigYang

4. I was thinking about just switching all of my dogs to ORIJEN and keeping them on that. I seen you had a post talking about sportmix or something, would you consider that to be a feed than puppy chow

---

SportsMix is garbage too. I only mentioned it as an example of a commonly-fed kibble, I sure as heck wouldn't recommend it as a food. Orijen has good ingredients, but again you can buy those same ingredients raw, save money in the process, and it will be much better for your dog. Again, the entire "kibbling" process is a sub-standard way to feed a dog. Kibble is made for human convenience, not to be optimal canine nutrition. Even the excellent ingredients in Orijen get destroyed by being cooked into oblivion and rendered into "little brown pellets."

As R2L said, your dog will drink 10x as much water on Orijen than it will fed raw. Why? Because raw meat is 70% water and Orijen is 10%, so your dog isn't getting over 60% of the moisture it needs. Worse, many of the vital nutrients inherent in raw foods are destroyed in the kibbling process, so merely "adding water" back to the feed isn't a substitute for just feeding raw in the first place. Why? Because the vital enzymes and micro-nutrients are gone and can't be brought back. I could go on, but I don't see the point, as it doesn't seem to me you are very receptive to listening and implementing what I am telling you.

Instead, what I suggest you do is read your own chosen signature, carefully.

Good luck,

Jack


.

@Jack

I am not trying to so called be "immune to learning" there clearly will be disagreements here and there that's just the way things are. I am not trying rebel at everything you say, I take it into consideration, but if i i have quistions i will simply as them and that is what i have been doing.

I am just confused on just the fact that

for example - say that i go to the store and buy a $40 dollar bag of dog food for lets say 2 dogs.
for example - say i go to the store and get $40 dollars worth of raw feed for 2 dogs

I know raw will be cheaper but which will last me longer because i am about 50 min away from any store in my area where my yard is????????

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by YigYang

@Jack
I am not trying to so called be "immune to learning" there clearly will be disagreements here and there that's just the way things are. I am not trying rebel at everything you say, I take it into consideration, but if i i have quistions i will simply as them and that is what i have been doing.

---

You're "disagreeing" with what? And based on what? Buddy, we are not "disagreeing," we have different levels of knowledge.

You are seeking my experience and asking me for my time, not the other way around, and while I am happy to give you my time ... it's hard not to get aggravated when you then are second-guessing what I have taken the time to tell you.

If you want me to write a book for you, I already have, and I suggest you buy it. If not, then what I have said here will have to suffice ... otherwise I suggest you do your own reading and research, or better yet try my suggestions, and then you will realize I was right and we'll be on the same page :mrgreen:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by YigYang

@Jack
I am just confused on just the fact that
for example - say that i go to the store and buy a $40 dollar bag of dog food for lets say 2 dogs.
for example - say i go to the store and get $40 dollars worth of raw feed for 2 dogs
I know raw will be cheaper but which will last me longer because i am about 50 min away from any store in my area where my yard is????????

---

These are easily-solved riddles if you're in earnest.

If you're a man who wants to feed the best, you will figure out a way.
If you're a man who wants to invent reasons "why not" to feed the best, then you'll excuse yourself out of it.
It's as simple as that.

I never said feeding raw was the most convenient way to feed; I said it was the best way to feed. I have already clearly stated that kibble was invented FOR human convenience, so if "your convenience" (rather than the best you can do) is your primary motivating force, then nothing will motivate you to change what you're doing: it's too convenient.

However, if feeding the best you can feed is your primary motive, then nothing will stop you from figuring out a way to make it work.

Again, read your own signature, and think about it carefully.

That is all I have to say :ugeek:

Jack

.